Extended producer responsibility in textiles: new decree under consideration

Eco-design, digital labels and selective collection systems for increasingly sustainable fashion ...


The Ministry of Environment and Energy Security has announced a decree on extended producer responsibility (ERP) for textiles. The goal: to lower the environmental impact of a sector that has always been problematic for climate goals, while promoting sustainability and the circular economy.

The new decree - which is being studied by Mase in consultation with the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy-will design a regulatory framework of requirements for the textile supply chain of clothing, footwear, accessories, leather goods and home textiles, in order to establish an ERP system consistent with the "National Strategy for the Circular Economy." A consultation of key stakeholders has been launched on the text, which will end on March 3.

 

The decree

The ERP system requires producers to be responsible for the product from start-up to recycling of the product. Thus, the producer will have to define selective and quality collection systems and build a network to manage it at the national level, also in agreement with the Area Authorities.

Provision is then made for the payment of an environmental fee, which does not exceed the costs necessary to ensure efficient waste management that promotes innovation toward the circular economy.

To achieve the set targets and to ensure the necessary coordination of separate collection activities, the CORIT, Coordination Center for Textile Recycling, was established, consisting of all individual and collective management systems recognized by the Ministry.

 

Smart and sustainable design

The decree requires the manufacturer to develop, produce, market products "suitable for reuse and repair, containing recycled materials, technically durable and easily repairable," internalizing "principles and economic models marked by circularity."

Various eco-design measures are then identified, such as the use of biocompatible textile fibers and natural materials and the elimination of hazardous components and substances, including with reference to microplastics released into the environment.

Finally, important is the adoption of "digital labeling" describing fiber characteristics and composition, indicating non-textile parts of animal origin.